In some ways, a journey down the Grand Canal is like riding on the Amtrak. US passenger trains often enter cities through the back, bypassing more modern transportation corridors and commercial sections. Although a behind-the-scenes look at the city can be a grim experience, astute travelers relish the chance to see remnants of the past and glimpses of some architectural masterpieces lost in the tide of progress.

The Grand Canal of Venice features more great architecture and brilliant urban designs in one small area than along the entire length of the Chinese canal. Yet far more people have depended on the Grand Canal of China for much longer than those living along the Venice canal.

Along the Grand Canal, there are sections where travelers come almost within touching distance of ancient houses and buildings that line its banks. Sagging and worn, these structures are also imbued with the simple beauty that comes with endurance. With the silhouettes of ultramodern skyscrapers looming against the horizon, the Grand Canal offers a penetrating look into old China.