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Great Wall, Hebei Province
Shanhaiguan Pass consists of a main castle, two supporting castles -- one in
the north and one in the south -- two semicircular protective walls in front of
the main castle, and the towns of Weiyuan and Ninghai. Today, most of these
structures are still well preserved, while others, such as the Wall of Ninghai,
the Calm Sea Tower built on the town wall, and the Laolongtou Great Wall, where
the Great Wall meets the sea, have been restored. The brick wall of the pass,
which is rammed with earth, is 14 meters high, 7 meters wide and 4 kilometers in
circumference. It is connected to the Great Wall that stretches across the
rolling Yanshan Mountains in the north and falls into the Bohai Sea in the
south, with many parts and battlements forming a strong and powerful defense
system. On the east gate of the city wall stands a tower with a
horizontal inscribed board that says: "The First Pass under the Heaven". The
bold characters, painted in vigorous strokes, make the pass even more
magnificent. The Gate Tower houses an exhibition of ancient military uniforms
and weapons, including a saber that weighs 83 kg -- the heaviest in the country.
Looking from the top of the tower, the series of battlements and rising mist
take you back to the ancient battlefields 1,000 years ago.
Beyond the Shanhaiguan Pass, the Great Wall stretches eastward until it dips
into the sea at Laolongtou ("Old Dragon's Head"). Tourist attractions in the
vicinity include the Jiaoshan section, which features the Great Wall creeping
along its mountain ridges; the Shanhaiguan Great Wall Museum, which boasts some
interesting pictures, relics and clothes depicting the wall's history; and
a temple dedicated to Meng Jiangnu, one of China's devoted heroines.
"The First Pass under
the Heaven"
Also known as the East Gate or "Zhendong Gate", the First Pass under Heaven
was built in the style of an arrow tower. With its 12-meter-high wall, the tower
is 13.7 meters high and topped with a two-storied, double-roofed structure built
in 1639. It has 68 embrasures or "arrow windows" in the north, south and east
sides. The upturned eaves located at the four corners are decorated with animal
patterns.
An inscription on the lintel of the arched gate that says "First Pass under
the Heaven", was executed in powerful strokes by Xiao Xian, a scholar of the
highest imperial degree. Each character is about 1.6 meters high, with a total
length of 5.9 meters. It is said that as Xiao Xian was planning the inscription,
he was not satisfied with the 1.09-meter-long character "yi", means "one."
Taking his cue from a waiter wiping tables in a restaurant, Xiao Xian finally
mastered the right technique.
Today, the tower is a museum showcasing weaponry, armor and traditional
costumes.
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