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Great Wall, Hebei Province

Shanhaiguan Pass consists of a main castle, two supporting castles -- one in the north and one in the south -- two semicircular protective walls in front of the main castle, and the towns of Weiyuan and Ninghai. Today, most of these structures are still well preserved, while others, such as the Wall of Ninghai, the Calm Sea Tower built on the town wall, and the Laolongtou Great Wall, where the Great Wall meets the sea, have been restored. The brick wall of the pass, which is rammed with earth, is 14 meters high, 7 meters wide and 4 kilometers in circumference. It is connected to the Great Wall that stretches across the rolling Yanshan Mountains in the north and falls into the Bohai Sea in the south, with many parts and battlements forming a strong and powerful defense system. On the east gate of the city wall stands a tower with a horizontal inscribed board that says: "The First Pass under the Heaven". The bold characters, painted in vigorous strokes, make the pass even more magnificent. The Gate Tower houses an exhibition of ancient military uniforms and weapons, including a saber that weighs 83 kg -- the heaviest in the country. Looking from the top of the tower, the series of battlements and rising mist take you back to the ancient battlefields 1,000 years ago.

Beyond the Shanhaiguan Pass, the Great Wall stretches eastward until it dips into the sea at Laolongtou ("Old Dragon's Head"). Tourist attractions in the vicinity include the Jiaoshan section, which features the Great Wall creeping along its mountain ridges; the Shanhaiguan Great Wall Museum, which boasts some interesting pictures, relics and clothes depicting the wall's history; and a temple dedicated to Meng Jiangnu, one of China's devoted heroines.

 "The First Pass under the Heaven"

Also known as the East Gate or "Zhendong Gate", the First Pass under Heaven was built in the style of an arrow tower. With its 12-meter-high wall, the tower is 13.7 meters high and topped with a two-storied, double-roofed structure built in 1639. It has 68 embrasures or "arrow windows" in the north, south and east sides. The upturned eaves located at the four corners are decorated with animal patterns.

An inscription on the lintel of the arched gate that says "First Pass under the Heaven", was executed in powerful strokes by Xiao Xian, a scholar of the highest imperial degree. Each character is about 1.6 meters high, with a total length of 5.9 meters. It is said that as Xiao Xian was planning the inscription, he was not satisfied with the 1.09-meter-long character "yi", means "one." Taking his cue from a waiter wiping tables in a restaurant, Xiao Xian finally mastered the right technique.

Today, the tower is a museum showcasing weaponry, armor and traditional costumes.


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