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Chinese Silk
Several thousand years ago, when the silk
trade first reached Europe via the Silk
Road, it brought with it not only gorgeous silk apparel and decorative
items, but also the ancient and resplendent culture of the Far East. From then
on, silk was regarded as the emissary and symbol of Eastern civilization. The
earliest silk article discovered to date is approximately 4700 years old,
unearthed from a tomb dating from China's Liangzhu
Culture (c. 3300-2200 BC).
According to an ancient Chinese legend, the Silkworm Goddess appeared to the
Yellow Emperor, the legendary ancestor of the Chinese people, after he
vanquished his adversary Chi You. She presented him with silk fibers spun from
her own mouth as a sign of respect. The Yellow Emperor ordered the fibers woven
into cloth and made into silk apparel, which he found exceedingly soft and
comfortable. His wife, Lei Zu of the Xiling clan, searched until she found a
type of caterpillar capable of spinning silk fibers from its mouth. She raised
these silkworms by feeding them mulberry leaves she picked herself. Later
generations came to worship Lei Zu as the Silkworm Goddess, and the Yellow
Emperor as the God of Weaving. Sericulture, including cultivating the mulberry
plant, raising silkworms, and producing silk fabric, has been an essential form
of labor in China throughout the millennia.
China is the birthplace of sericulture. Raising silkworms and reeling the
silk from their cocoons was ancient China's greatest achievement in the
utilization of natural fibers. As long ago as the Neolithic Age (c. 12,000-2000
BC), the Chinese ancestors had invented flat-weaving and figured-weaving
techniques, and were tinting cloth using natural vermilion dye.
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Menade in silk
dress | With improvements in loom
construction and printing
and dying methods, more varieties of silk were developed and a comprehensive
system of cloth dying evolved. China possessed the most advanced silk dying and
weaving techniques of the ancient world.
Coming to Know China through
Silk
Chinese silk first made its way to Rome sometime during the
1st century BC, where it was known as "serice" Silk, like other precious
fabrics, had to pass through many hands before reaching Rome. It is possible
that the term "serice" was derived from the Chinese word si (silk), the original
pronunciation having been corrupted by successive relays of merchants traveling
west. The Romans had never seen anything like "serice" before, and believed that
it was made by some distant people they called "Sericians". It was also rumored
that beyond the "Silk Kingdom" of the Sericians was an even more distant and
mysterious land, known as "Chine."
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