The Old Town of Lijiang (Lijiang, Yunnan Province)
a. Brief Introduction
This 800-year-old habitation of the Naxi people is noteworthy for its harmony
with nature, ingenious architecture and urban facilities.
Lying in a broad, fertile valley in the northwest of Yunnan Province, the old
town of Lijiang has been a commercial, political and cultural center of the Naxi
people and other ethnic minorities for over eight centuries.
It was designated as a town around the beginning the Yuan Dynasty
(1271-1368). From 1253 on, the Naxi people of Lijiang developed a unique social
system, customs and culture of their own under the rule of a hereditary
succession of chieftains of the Mu clan. In the 18th century, the Qing Dynasty
rulers implemented a policy of cultural interaction, and the Naxi people adopted
the customs of the Tibetan and Han peoples. Despite several earthquakes that
afflicted Lijiang, and because of renovation, most of the old town retains its
original structure.
Lijiang is surrounded by the snow-covered Yulong Mountains. "There are four
seasons on one mountain," says a folk song about Yulong, "and the scenery
changes every ten li (five km)." The Lijiang area is known as a treasure house
of animals and plants, and a huge natural reservoir. Water flowing down from
melting glaciers and snow high in the mountains irrigates the fields and
provides water for the residents.
Water, in fact, flows everywhere in Lijiang. Crystal-clear streams wind
around all the houses and flows through the courtyards. Stone bridges span the
streams. Streets paved with colored stones, including Sifang (Square) Street,
are thus kept free from dust and mud in all seasons. The source of these streams
is the Yuquan (Jade Spring) River, which meanders past the foot of Xiangshan
(Elephant) Hill, north of Lijiang. In addition, there is the Baimalong
(White-Horse Dragon) Pool and wells sunk around the numerous springs. The local
people have made ponds along the courses of the springs. The upper ponds supply
drinking water, the middle ponds are for washing vegetables, and the lower ponds
are for washing clothes. The spring water that overflows the banks is used for
washing the streets.
All over the old town there are unique buildings inspired by and in harmony
with Nature. Cultural relics, both tangible and intangible, also abound. In the
vicinity of Lijiang there are the Shuhe Folk Residence and Baisha Folk Residence
Complex, as well as cultural sites like the Five Phoenix Tower in the Fuguo
Temple, the Great Treasure Palace and the Glazed Hall.
b. Cultural Heritage
Music
Almost all Lijiang counties have their own ensembles of the traditional
music, among which the Baihua and Dayan Troupe are the best known. The musicians
of the traditional music are mostly advanced in age and experienced in both
music and story telling. They have received the special attention of the
government as carriers of the ancient culture of the Naxi people.
The most famous musical piece is the time-honored Baisha Music Suite
combining singing, dancing and instrumental music, also known asBieshixieli, or
Beishixili. Other forms of music include the Dongjing (Taoist Scripture) Music
that originated among the Han people and maintains the rhythms and tunes of ci
and qu, lost forms of classical verse from central China. Various kinds of dance
music are also popular in the Lijiang area.
Murals
The renowned murals of Lijiang are to be found in the town, and the 15
temples in the surrounding areas. These murals, dating from the Ming and Qing
periods, depict religious themes. A large mural in the Dabaoji Palace in Baisha
Village shows a hundred deities and figures of Han Buddhism, Tibetan Buddhism,
and Taoism.
Dongba script and language
The most amazing feature of Lijiang is the Dongba script, handed down for
generations in the Lijiang area. Also known as the Encyclopedia of the Naxi
Minority, the scriptures comprise more than 20,000 volumes recording the history
and culture of the Naxi people, among which is Cuomo, a description of the
stories, steps, costumes, stage props, and musical instruments for several dozen
Dongba classical dances.
The language used by the Naxi people in compiling their scriptures is Dongba,
the world's only living language that still uses hieroglyphics. Literally
meaning "knowledge", it is the main vehicle of the traditional culture of the
Naxi People.
c. Architecture
Lijiang covers an area of 14 sq. km, and has over 4,200 households. It is
also known as Dayan Town, meaninglarge inkstone, as it is laid out in the shape
of a traditional Chinese inkstone.
With Sifang Street as the central thoroughfare, Lijiang has houses made of
stone and wood, combining the architectural features of the Han, Bai and Tibetan
ethnic groups, as well as the Naxi.
A typical house has two stories. A row of three main rooms on the ground
floor faces south and is flanked on each side by a row of three rooms projecting
at right angles and opening inward to form a front courtyard hidden from public
view by a wall.
The three main rooms are for the elders, and the side rooms are for the
younger members of the family. The roof edges over the gables are embellished
with fish-shaped boards, known locally as "suspended fish." In the Chinese
language, "fish" and "surplus" sound the same, so the carved fish are a sort of
prayer for auspiciousness and wealth. The doorway is decorated with exquisite
carvings, and the courtyard is paved with pebbles, colored tiles, or colored
bricks. The middle room of the main row has six latticed windows ornamented with
designs of flowers, birds and animals. A spacious veranda in front of the main
rooms provides a space for the family members to relax in. Almost every
household has a flowerbed and a pool in the courtyard.
d. Folk Culture
Lijiang is not only the cultural center of the Naxi people, but also a
meeting place for the Han, Tibetan, Bai and Naxi cultures. Ever since the 7th
century (during the Tang Dynasty), the Naxi people have cultivated their unique
culture through learning from other ethnic groups, including their unique
pictographic script, songs, dances and operas.