However, the original spirit of the place is there if you look hard enough. Climbing to the top of the Linggu Temple, you can see hills and forests for miles around and from the pagoda you can understand how the monks in the past found inspiration there and why emperors chose to make Nanjing their home.

Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum

Nighttime in Nanjing continues mixing the traditional with the modern and culture with commerce. As the street lights come to life, the center of activity converges around Confucius Temple, which originally was the grand living quarters of Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) military officials.

Linggu Temple and Beamless Hall

It has now been thoroughly commercialized into a tourist and shopping heaven. While a long street outside is lined with shops selling all sorts of souvenirs and other knick-knacks, a 50-yuan (US$6.6) ticket for the Confucius complex itself comes complete with tour guide, comedy performance, and a cup of tea.

Despite these modern trappings, however, inside the compound you can still sense an aura of elegance and sophistication. And with some imagination you can see this place as it was in the heyday of the Qing Dynasty, a residence more comfortable and more beautiful than any five-star hotel.

For contrasts of a different kind you can visit the former presidential palace of the KMT government. This is a huge compound that encompasses living quarters, state halls, office buildings and even air raid shelters.

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