I will never forget my second day there. When I opened the door in the morning, I saw the land covered with a soft blanket of pure whiteness. The farmers' black houses dotting the hills created a picture of paradise.

The air was cold but clean. I couldn't help breathing happily.

The sky was soft grey in the morning, but after an hour or so, the corners became brilliant blue, as if someone had overturned the clouds to reveal what lay underneath.

In less than 15 minutes, the clouds disappeared, turning the sky bright blue and scouring the landscape with golden sunshine.

We stayed at the Banyan Tree Ringha, a new resort located in a Tibetan hamlet named Hongpo Village about 40 minutes drive from the county. You would never know that it was a resort if you weren't told.

The buildings around the resort resemble those in the village. The wood used to build the villas comes from the Tibetan houses, and the villas are built in the traditional local style.

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