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'Heaven on Earth': Limestone Paradise

distinguishes this hill from its neighbours. Beyond, a steep, narrow track involving some simple scrambling soon leads to the flat, although narrow summit. Further away still, the skyline is lined with peaks of almost equal height - resembling narrow triangles of rock pointing skywards. Most are dark green, being covered with a thick mass of fairly jagged vegetation. The more distant hills are close together, contrasting with the wider spaces around the Baisha Valley. A patchwork of fields, in different stages of growth, produce abundant crops of rice and vegetables. Villages, connected by a network of tracks, keep close to the cliffs so as not to waste valuable farming land. The main road back to Yangshuo lies in the distance, cutting a sweeping path through this serene land. Also below lie the Big Banyan Tree and the areas previously visited.

Starting to head back to town, evening was approaching and the area's natural beauty enhanced. Many peaks became silhouettes in the hazy sky. They were reflected in the calm waters of fishponds adjacent to a wide green carpet of maturing rice. There, the river also flowed in a wide bend. Mirrored on its smooth surface was Moon Hill - so beautiful it was difficult to leave that evening.

 Hidden Baisha Valley

The entire area is a delight to explore by mountain bike. The Baisha Valley, for example, was so stunning that almost every minute required a stop to photograph another breathtaking scene. Tracks led through a working landscape of rice fields, fishponds and villages where the houses were built of dried adobe (mud earth) bricks. Vegetable plots sat close to the homes where small pigs often wallowed in mud holes.

The route, after winding through a network of adjoining valleys eventually followed the main river. To provide essential irrigation water for the fields, the wide stream was dammed and canals carried fast flowing water to the fields. Arched stone bridges, possibly hundreds of years old, provided access to the rich fields on the other side.

 By River to Surrounding Countryside

Riverboats, which can carry bicycles, radiate out from Yangshuo to many small towns where time seems almost to have stood still. From them it is a pleasant cycle ride back to town, the journey usually taking much longer than the distance suggests, due to the requirements of photography.
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