Mani stone carving is a time-honored and unique way that Tibetan people record and carry forward their culture. Wherever you go in the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, you will find mani stones carved with Buddhist scriptures. And among all the stone carving sites, the carved stone wall in Heri of Qinghai is known as the most complete and spectacular one.

A monk carving prayer stone

  A Journey to Heri

In Tibetan-inhabited areas, artisans carve Buddhist scriptures or portraits on stones. Those carved stones can keep Buddhist sutras much longer than silk or paper. They are usually piled at mountain passes, lakesides, bridges, or outside temples to make it convenient for Buddhists to pray. For Tibetans, every stone on the plateau has a soul and when it is carved with Buddhist scriptures or portraits, it becomes a divine object and is bestowed with mighty supernatural power.

I have long heard of the carved stone wall in Heri, which is dubbed as the best both artistically and in scale. But due to its remote location, few have ever visited it. The other day, I took a journey to Zeku County where the wall is located. On my way, I passed through Maixiu Virgin Forest where snow-capped pine trees are lined along the mountain road. After we traveled across the forest, we entered the vast and beautiful Zeku Prairie.

It was very cold when we arrived in the town of Zeku at noon. This highland town in the grassland area, standing at 3,700 meters above sea level, boasts only one intersection and shabby buildings, but in characteristic Tibetan style, is full of Tibetans wearing Tibetan leather gowns and fox-leather hats.

At the intersection there are several shops selling leather products, Tibetan gowns, Tibetan butter, and other Tibetan food. In front of shops stand tanned-face muscular Tibetan men wearing Tibetan knives and thick-heel leather boots, looking awe-inspiring. Behind them and at the shop gateway are Tibetan women wearing splendid clothes and jewels. They smiled naively but attractively.

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