Quanzhou: Returning to the City of Light
Twin Pagodas
The Twin Pagodas are on the corner of West Street in
Licheng District northwest of Quanzhou. The one on the east named Zhenguo was
48.24 meters high and the one on the west named Renshou, 44.6 meters in height.
They were originally built with wood and bricks, but during the Southern
Song Dynasty (1127-1279), they were redone into stone in a major
reconstruction.
The most impressive parts of the east and west pagodas are the bas-relief
carvings around the niches of each story, between eaves and on the base,
depicting warriors, lokapalas (in Hindu, supporters or guardians of the world),
guardian deities, arhats (a type of Buddha), and Bodhisattvas. The artistic
style is a mixture of Chinese and Indian styles.
There is a bas-relief of the legendary Monkey King on the fourth story of the
west pagoda. This has caused some people to argue that the Monkey King
originated in Fujian, since the novel Journey to the West was written in the
16th century, long after the pagoda was built.
The pagodas stand some two hundred meters from each other, guarding the main
hall of Kaiyuan Temple behind. When looking from the top story of the pagodas,
one can enjoy a delightful bird's-eye view of the whole city.
Kaiyuan Temple
The Kaiyuan Temple was first built in 686 with an area of
78,000 square meters and is as famous as the Guangji
Temple in Beijing
and the Lingyin
Temple in Hangzhou
(East China's Zhejiang
Province .
The temple is highly regarded architecturally. Its main hall "the Mahavira
Hall", also called the Purple Cloud Hall, has three distinguished features
rarely seen in other temples: 100 heavy stone columns supporting the roof
of the hall, five huge Buddha statues standing in the same hall, and, most
admirably, the flying musicians carved on some of the pillars.
Inside the hall are 24 flying apsaras (water nymphs or nature fairies) carved
in between the brackets. Carrying Nanyin musical
instruments in their hands, they look like a cross between Oriental girls
and Catholic angels, but with wings in the shape of bats (a homonym for fortune
in Chinese) instead of flowing ribbons and floating clouds. The 24 figures,
waiting upon the Buddha day and night, were to support the beams and to
symbolize the 24 solar terms. This masterpiece ingeniously embodies the
harmonious unity of mechanics, aesthetics, and Buddhism
.
Inside the temple are also many images of human figures, animals, and other
patterns carved on the stone foundations, all vividly reflecting the harmonious
blend of Chinese culture and arts with those of the West.
To the east of Mahavira Hall is the Hall of Quanzhou Ancient Boat Relics.
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