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Universal phenomenon

Throughout history and around the globe, humans at every level of complexity discovered how to make fermented beverages from sugar sources available in their local habitats, according to McGovern.

The reason for such a widespread phenomenon of fermented beverages may have, he suggests, derived in part from ethanol's combined pain-relieving, disinfectant and profound mind-altering effects.

Moreover, fermentation helps to preserve and enhance the nutritional value of foods and beverages.

Because of their perceived multiple benefits, fermented beverages have played key roles in the development of human culture and technology, contributing to the advancement of agriculture, horticulture and food-processing techniques.

Among all strata of ancient society, they marked major events, from births to deaths, as well as victories, auspicious occasions and harvests, McGovern added.

The royal and the rich, particularly, were drawn to the beverages, the researchers noted in their PNAS article.

In certain cases, such celebrations could also develop into large-scale secular or religious ceremonies for the whole of society.

China is no exception but when McGovern started his collaboration with his Chinese counterparts in 2000, the questions were when and how.

Historical writings provided the first trace. Based on the oracle inscriptions from the late Shang Dynasty, the earliest texts from China, at least three beverages were distinguished: chang (a herbal wine), li (probably a sweet, low-alcoholic rice or millet beverage) and jiu (a fully fermented and filtered rice or millet beverage or "wine," with an alcoholic content of probably 10-15 per cent).

According to the inscriptions, the Shang palace administration included officials who made the beverages, which sometimes were inspected by the king.

Fermented beverages and other foods were offered as sacrifices to royal ancestors in various forms of bronze vessels, likely accompanied by elite feasting.

Later documents, incorporating traditions from the Zhou Dynasty (1046-256 BC), describe another two beverages: luo, which was likely made from a fruit and lao, an unfiltered, fermented rice or millet beverage.

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