A wall piled up by skulls
Seeing this wall piled up of skulls, a property from a horror film
usually comes to the mind. But it's no fiction. Together with the charnel ground
(where the sky burials are held), and the hovering vultures in the crystal blue
sky, this mysterious world has always been an irresistible attraction on the
ridge of the world - Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
Location
The skull wall is near the Duoduoka Charnel Ground in the western part of
Biru County, 300 kilometers on the southeast of Tibetan
Autonomous Region 's Naqu Region. The name "Biru" originally meant the "horn
of female Tibtan yak", because according to a local saga, a "tribe of female
yak" once settled down here.
The skull wall is a result of Tibet's unique sky burial tradition. The
Duoduoka Charnel Ground occupies an area of about 4,000 square meters. Earthen
walls roughly as tall as a man stand on the ground's four sides. On the south
and west walls, there are some wooden shelves, about between four to five
stories each, which each shelf displaying some orderly-placed human skulls.
The skull wall
Except for the Duoduoka Burial Stage where the skulls of the dead are kept
and placed on the wall nearby, in other areas of Tibet where the sky burial custom is
practiced, the whole human body is fed to the vultures, with not a single part
spared.
There are two gates respectively on the west and south of the Duoduoka
Charnel Ground's courtyard. The west gate is for living human beings, while the
one on the south is where the bodies are carried in. The bungalow on the north
is exclusively for the monks who carry out the religious sky burial ceremonies,
and inside the rooms are some religious scriptures and figures.
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Why the skulls are kept?
According to Duoduoka's sky burial master, there were originally three
monasteries where skulls were kept in sky burials: the Duoduoka Monastery, the
Ridazeng Monastery opposite the former and the Quedai Monastery nearby. Biru has
gained its fame from containing all three monasteries. Unfortunately, most of
the skulls have been damaged both by natural and manmade disasters. By the early
1980s, most of skulls in the Ridazeng and Quedai monasteries have disappeared,
despite a very supportive governmental policy in preserving religious relics.
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Author: Jeff
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