Jade Clothes Sewn With Golden Thread
were actually funeral suits for the imperial family, a custom which first
appeared in the Warring States Period (476-221BC) and prevailed in the Han
Dynasty (206BC-AD220)
As a symbol of class, jade suits, which were
tailored to the client's shape, were used as garments for deceased emperors and
nobility of the Han Dynasty. The emperor wore garments sewn with golden thread,
while kings and princess wore silver-threaded suits; other officials and nobles
wore copper-threaded garments. Respectively the latter two pieces were called
Jade Clothes Sewn With Silver Thread and Jade Clothes Sewn With Copper
Thread.
Since people of the Han Dynasty believed
jade had absorbed the excellence of mountains, it was used to preserve dead
bodies for the after life. Therefore, jade suits played an important role in
jade articles. To date, over 20 jade suits have been discovered in China,
including the Jade Clothes Sewn With Golden Thread of Liu Sheng, Duke Zhongshan
of the Han Dynasty -- the earliest and finest specimen.
The 188 cm long, jade garment was unearthed
in the Tomb of Duke Zhongshan in Mancheng County, Hebei Province, north of China
in 1968. Composed of six parts -- the hood, coat, sleeves, gloves, trousers and
shoot, with a total 2,498 jade pieces and 1,100 grams of gold thread -- the jade
suit includes eye covers, nose stopples and covers for reproductive organs. The
whole suit was rimmed with red thread and an iron rim on the trouser legs for
fixation. The face cover was carved with holes in the shape of eyes, a nose and
mouth. The suit is broader in the chest and back and bulges at the hips, ideally
fitting the figure.
The jade suit was delicately designed with
orderly aligned and harmoniously colored jade slices that reflect the superb
techniques of the craftsmen and the extravagant lives of the nobles. The jade
suit belongs to the Antique Research Center of Hebei Province.
Due to ancient productivity conditions, it
was very difficult to make jade clothing sewn with a golden thread more than
2,000 years ago. First of all, raw materials had to be transported from far away
and then processed into thousands of pieces of various sizes. Every piece had to
be polished and small holes were drilled into it -- techniques that required
high craftsmanship. The size and shape of each piece was strictly designed as
part of the artwork and special golden thread was also needed to sew the jade
pieces together. A massive amount of manpower and resources were needed to
produce a piece of jade clothing. The value of such garments at the time was
roughly equal to the properties of 100 middle-class families. However, items
like the Jade Clothes Sewn With Golden Thread did not help emperors attain
immortality, instead, they attracted many tomb robbers. Until the Three Kingdoms
Period (220-280), Wei Emperor Cao Pi banned the use of Jade Clothes Sewn With
Golden Thread, and the practice was abolished from Chinese
history.