Colorful cap is part of the Uygur
ethnic minority's habiliment, and also one of the symbols of the minority. As
early as the Tang Dynasty (618-907), most males of the Western Regions wore a
pointed-topped felt hat with a turnup edge, quite similar to the present-day
"Sipianwa". By the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), owing to the influence of
Arabian and Central Asian culture, men of the Uygur ethnic minority had begun to
shave their heads and wear small embroidered caps. In the beginning period of
the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the colorful cap of the minority developed further
in material and design. Leather was used in winter and damask silk in summer,
with fowl feather inserted at the front. All caps for female were decorated with
purl embroidery.
Through the constant innovation by the Uygur
people of all places, the colorful cap has become increasingly delicate in
workmanship and progressively various in styles. But the chief types are
"Qiyiman" and "Badanmu", generally called "Gaba"
(four-sided tiny colorful cap).
"Qinyiman" cap is flowery in color,
and its needle work is fine and smooth. It is embroidered with chromatic threads
made of silver and gold, and set with some small plastic beads of various
colors. Boys and girls wearing them dance and sing under the shady grape
trellis.
"Badanmu" was derived from
Badanxing (prunus amygdalus), which is a tree originating from Persia,
characterized by its ability to blossom and bear fruit even in an arid desert.
According to the character of prunus amygdalus and its meniscoid core, the
highly imaginative Uygur use white silk thread, and the technique of combination
of curve, straight, dots and lines, to embroider a pattern of apricots crowded
around by ripples and beads, symbolizing that trickling springs are nourishing
fruitful trees. Such a simple and elegant "Badanmu" colorful cap is
especially favored by middle-aged and old people.
There are many ways to embroider the
colorful cap: silk thread plane embroidering, cross-shaped embroidering, silk
thread knot embroidering, bead string embroidering, lattice embroidering, gold
and silver embroidering, crochet embroidering, enlaced cloth with soft nap
embroidering and integrated embroidering combined with brede, enlacing, cluster
and entwing. Uygur women first embroider chromatic patterns on the four pieces
of cap cover, then sew them together, fixing the lining on it and putting it on
the wooden mold, and finally add the black velveteen margin. So, the dainty
little colorful cap has come out.