The Hani ethnic minority mostly lives in the
southwest part of Yunnan
Province. It is a mountainous
race in the Honghe area of Yunnan Province. The
Hanis are mainly engaged in agriculture, and are good at reclaiming terraced
land to plant paddy rice, and clearing slopes for tea plants. They cultivated
the famous purple rice and Pu'er tea, and created one of the seven field systems
in Chinese agricultural history -- terraced field culture. They have many
traditional festivals, including October Day (New Year), June Day (taste new
food), Botu (to fete the mountain gods), Mother Memorial Day, Recognizing Uncle
Day, and Abaduo (love and singing festival). The rich dietetic culture
matches well with the colorful festival culture, forming special Hani
customs.
The Hanis have two meals a day, with paddy
rice as their staple food, supplemented by maize. They like cooked rice, rice
cake, rice noodles, rolled noodles, and pea noodles. They also use the purple
glutinous rice to make purple rice, purple rice cake, purple porridge, purple
rice noodles, purple rice pudding, purple steamer pot chicken, purple wine with
eggs, and purple rice-drug-sugar porridge, thus forming a complete medicinal
food series, which have the effects of enriching blood, boosting vital energy,
warming the spleen, invigorating the brain, and the kidney, and building up the
body.
The Hanis are very fond of meat, including
pork, beef, mutton, chicken and duck, etc. Plenty of food and bowls of wine are
indispensable when people entertain guests. Smoked bacon and Ganba are
delicacies for choice of the Hanis.
The Hanis have a special dish called
Baiwang, a kind of food made of fresh blood of pig, sheep and dog,
chopped and fried meat, liver and kidney, and added with the mixture of chili
powder, aniseed powder, and wild prickly ash powder. The dish is frightening to
the eyes, but delicious to the tongue. It tastes strong, thick, hot and
delicious.
In the traditional Hani calendar, a year is
divided into cold season, warm season and rain season, and a season is divided
into 4 months. They have the habit of celebrating two New Year festivals, one
being the October Festival, and the other, the June Festival. The October
Festival begins with the first dragon day in lunar October, and lasts for 5 or 6
days. Sacrifice will be offered to the gods and ancestors. By then, every family
kills a big cock, and cooks it on the spot. People never take it indoors. Each
member of the family eats a piece, but not for the married daughters. Since the
third day, a grand campaign is held each afternoon where all villagers drink
wine together, symbolizing unity and happiness. People in the village are
divided into three groups. Each group plays the host for one day. When it is
about the time of sunset, the male that rules the roost in each family carries
delicacies and broomcorn wine to the street in the music of gongs and drums, and
places them in order on the prepared long bamboo mat. The mat in some big
villages may be 100 meters long. The male that rules the roost in each family
sits around the mat, with his legs crossed. The families offer their best
dishes, and drink and dance according to the rules.
The Hanis are fond of liquor, and there are
many wine estivals, such as the Mother Memorial Day, Elders' Day, Yellow Rice
Day, Naming Day, Dragon Day, Recognizing Uncle Day, and so on. Quality wine is
provided for each festival. The most interesting festival is Abaduo, the
love party with wine and songs.
Abaduo is a
wine festival where young Hanis show love, wisdom and cooking techniques. It is
usually held in the leisure season. The young men of a village jointly invite
the girls of the neighboring village to take part in. The numbers of male and
female participants are equivalent, and usually around 20 each. When the night
falls, the feast begins in a big house. Men and women get seated in pairs. The
dishes are rich, with surely a boiled cock (with two cock testes and a living
crab on the top). The pairs propose toasts and sing in antiphonal style, and
stay together till dawn. Before parting, the young men will send glutinous rice
and meat to their lovers, and set the date for the next gathering.
The Hanis also have the custom of drinking
new crop wine. Before each autumn harvest, the Hanis in the Yuanjiang area of
Yunnan Province hold a grand ritual of drinking new
crop wine, with the best wishes of harvest, safety and health. Each family reaps
a handful of to-be-ripe paddy, hang it upside down to the edge of a small bamboo
mat on the upper side of the back wall, praying to the family god to protect the
crops. Then, they take dozens of grains, fry them or not, and dip them into
bottles containing liquor. Then a propitious date is set, all families prepare
rich dishes, and all members of the family drink some new crop wine without
exception. And every one should eat and drink enough.
The Hanis take fire as the life of the
family. They carefully protect the kindling, and guard the fire. Each family has
several fireplaces, which should not only be ever burning, but also be different
from each other. The first fireplace is used to cook small pots of rice and cook
dishes; the second is specially used to cook rice and so on; in addition, each
family has a special fireplace just for the pigs'
food.