Peking Opera,Aesthetically Appealing Art
ˇ¤Characters featuring Peking Opera costumes
A performer's costume primarily designates his or her role on the stage no
matter when or where the action takes place. For instance, an imperial robe is
suitable to any emperor ranging from the ancients of the Shang
Dynasty (16-11th centuryBC) to the royal rulers of the Qing
Dynasty (1644-1911).
Regardless of the four seasons of the scenery background, the opera costume
is always the same. For example, the young scholar Zhang in Romance
of the Western Chamber wears the same silk gown both on his February visit
to Pujiu (Save-All) Monastery or when he takes leave of his beloved, Cui
Yingying, at a farewell party in the fall.
Peking Opera costumes give voice to a character's sex and status at first
glance. In terms of symbolic function, they have done well in marking off people
from all walks of life, noble or humble, civil or military. For example, the
wear of a beggar's gown patched with satin suggests that the character is
temporarily poor but expects a bright future.
By means of costumes, the good and the evil are clearly distinguished. For
instance, the wings (chizi ) attached to a gauze hat indicate a loyal
official if they are in the form of oblong. In contrast, a corrupt officer is
made to wear a gauze hat with rhomboidal wings.
Accessories, including helmets and hats, constitute an integral part to bring
about dramatic stage effects. For instance, the wings attached to a hat, the
plumes (lingzi) pinned to a helmet, and the cascading sleeves
(shuixiu ) sewn to a garment, though short of practical function, are
acclaimed as the representative of Peking Opera's beauty.
ˇ¤Categorization of the theoretical costumes
In the early days, opera costumes were mainly made of wool or coarse cloth;
later, satin, crepe, and silk were used, decorated with various meticulously
embroidered patterns. The making of opera costumes is a special and unique
stagecraft. The costume box first appeared in the Ming
Dynasty (1368-1644), and was greatly improved in the Qing
Dynasty .
Official Robe (guanyi )
Guanyi is also called yuanling (round collar). It is formal wear for civic
officials. It features a jade
girdle around the waist and an embroidered mandarin square, one each on the
chest and the back. Guanyi in black indicates of the lowest official post while
the white Guanyi suggests that a certain royal household member has died.
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