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Secrets of Women's Underwear in Ancient China
On the mural painting unearthed from a tomb from
the Wei and Jin period in the Gansu Province, there were fragments of
women wearing square-shaped "liangdang." A brocade of rich colors was the major
material for the double-pieced underwear, which could protect both chest and
back.

"Hezi" in Tang Dynasty
Tang Dynasty saw economic prosperity and also a quite open society, which
influenced the changes of the undergarments. It was in this period that the
first lace-less underwear appeared. It was called "Hezi." The women during this
time preferred to wear translucent dresses which exposed the neck, shoulders and
upper-half of the breasts - making laces redundant. Instead, buttons were
fastened in the front to fasten the "Hezi," a piece of cloth that swathed the
breasts and back. It was made from a heavy, elastic fabric, making a better
visual effect for the breasts.
"Moxiong" in the Song Dynasty was much more
conservative. The single-pieced underwear could cover both the breasts and
belly. In the common families, "moxiong" was usually made of cotton; rich women
could afford silk ones that were embroidered with a flower design. One
double-layered "moxiong," made of thin silk, was excavated at a tomb in the
Fujian Province.
During the Yuan Dynasty, underwear became much more
tempting, whether seen from the name or from the shape. "Hehuanjin," the name in
Chinese alludes to the close relationship concerning sex. Several bands, which
were connected to the front piece, served as the only covering on the back. This
exposed a lot of skin. Buttons were fastened in the front, similar to the
"Hezi." It was usually made of thick brocade.
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