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The Art of Resist Dyeing
Clamp-resist dyeing is not completely extinct, although today it''s believed to
be on the verge of disappearing. In the 1950s and 60s, jiaxie quilts, whose
covers were decorated with clamp-resist dyed patterns, were still an essential
part of nuptial celebrations in Wenzhou, east China's Zhejiang
Province . When a young local girl got engaged, her family would be busy
preparing the jiaxie quilts for her. The patterns on the local traditional
quilt covers in Wenzhou usually featured four horizontal and four vertical
lines, making a grid pattern of 16 blocks. These blocks usually had designs
depicting "100 sons," "double happiness" and "dragon
and phoenix ", which had nuptial connotations.
However, nowadays only a few people carry on the traditional clamp-resist
dyeing technique. Xue Xunlang, from Cangnan County of Wenzhou, accidentally
became a reviver of clamp-resist dyeing and was the last person to run a
workshop in the local area to produce jiaxie cloth.
In 1988, Xue got to know an elderly Japanese lady who ran the Lan Lan Chinese
Flowery Cloth Store in Shanghai.
At her request, Xue brought her some bolts of old cloth from the Chinese
countryside including a piece of jiaxie cloth. The Japanese woman told Xue that
historians believed this handicraft technique had been lost in China. Xue
explained that such cloth was very common in Wenzhou. He said although it had
not been manufactured for about 20 years, it wouldn't be difficult to resume
production. Xue met the Dai family in Cangnan, who used to own the most famous
dyehouse in the area. The Dais recommended Chen Kangsuan, one of their
ex-workers, to Xue. Chen was already 66 years old when he met Chen in 1989 and
hadn't made any jiaxie cloth for over 30 years but he gladly agreed to try.
The resumption of jiaxie-cloth production attracted attention from experts
and media. However, despite their help, Xue's workshop finally closed down after
about ten years of production due to financial difficulties.
Author: Lency
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