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Nanjing Yunjin
Brocade production
An inch of the Nanjing brocade was said to be as valuable as an ounce of
gold. What is interesting is that the delicate and soft brocade came out from
wooden looms as big as 5.6-meters long, 4-meters high and 1.4-meters wide. The
huge looms needed two operators, one above and one below in the delicate
production sequence that was as complicated as a current computer programming
language. The process showed the incredible talent of Chinese of the past.
The person sitting at the loom was known as a "thread puller". All
he or she had to do was to pull the thread in line in the threading sequence,
corresponding to commands entered into a computer keyboard of today. The person
sitting on the lower part of the loom was called a "weaver". He or she twined
the pattern and wove the materials into brocade using golden or multicolored
threads. The woven piece in front of the weaver was just like a computer screen.
The weaving technology of the brocade is exceedingly complex and exquisite, and
no modern machine has yet been able to replace the ancient looms.
There are mainly four categories in brocade: gold weaving, (in which gold is
pressed into foil, then cut into thread-like pieces to be twisted into threads
and then woven on looms) Ku Silk Fabrics, Ku Brocade Fabrics and Zhuanghua Silk
Fabrics. All four categories serve as materials for emperors' robes, queens'
dresses and shawls, concubine's clothing, decorations for the imperial courts
and daily use articles, including cushions, mattresses, pillows, and quilts. The
Nanjing brocade served as precious gifts for emperors to give to foreign kings
and ministers.
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