Chinese opera performers mainly have
two methods of makeup: masks and facial painting. The frequent on-stage change
of masks, without the audience noticing, is a special technique, known as
changing faces. Opera facial painting falls into three main categories --
personality makeup (facial designs, painted faces or Lian Pu), decorative
makeup (decorated faces), mood makeup (changing facial designs), and
pictographic makeup (animal-like facial designs).
Lian Pu
Personality makeup, or Lian
Pu, refers to facial designs for Jing and Chou roles.
It originated from daily life experience, describing such changes of expression
as white for fear, red for shyness, dark for suntan, and sallow for illness.
Most facial designs attach great importance to the eyes and eyebrows. Lian Pu
has formed a complete system, such as the facial designs of Peking Opera.
Red, yellow, white, black, purple, green and
silver are the main colors used for facial designs to represent different
characters. For instance, red stands for loyal, courageous and upright people;
white for sinister and cunning officials; and golden and silvery colors for gods
and ghosts.
The facial designs for the Jing roles
are made by painting, powdering and coloring in the basic forms of Zheng
Lian (keeping the basic face pattern), San Kuai Wa Lian
(three-section face) and Sui Lian (fragmentary face). These types are
widely used to represent generals, officials, heroes, gods and ghosts.
The Chou actors can be recognized by
the patch of white in various shapes (cube-, date pit-or bat-shaped) painted
around the eyes and nose. Sometimes these patches are outlined in black, hence
the term Xiao Hua Lian (partly painted face). The Chou roles fall
into the following two categories: Wen Chou (civil) and Wu Chou
(martial).
Decorative makeup
Decorative makeup refers to the facial
decorations of Sheng and Dan actors, also known as Su Mian
or Jing Mian (elegant or clean faces). In the early days,
Sheng actors and Dan actresses put on light makeup. At the end of
the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), stage lighting was used, and actors and actresses
had to put on heavy makeup by using greasepaint rather than fine powder. Though
the Sheng and Dan performers do not have facial designs as
Jing and Chou roles, their makeup is full of decorative
interest.