Ningxia's desert sun shines light on the ancient secrets of its shadowy past. Guo Shuhan reports

The mysteries of the Western Xia Kingdom (1038-1227) come to light after sunset. Certainly, the sun's absence corresponds with tourists? rendering the otherwise bustling tableau desolate and tranquil - that is, ideal for careful examination and contemplation. Dusk's glow offers the most illuminating opportunity to wander the flagstone that spills into the mausoleum of the kingdom's first emperor, Li Yuanhao (1003-1048).

The Western Xia Tombs are a testament to a thriving culture about 1,000 years ago, at the foot of Helan Mountain near Yinchuan, Ningxia Hui autonomous region. Wu Qiming / China Foto Press

The tomb pocks the middle of Helan Mountain's eastern slope, 35 kilometers west of Yinchuan, capital of Ningxia Hui autonomous region. Today, the structure shines with the polish of ages, and gazing at the dilapidated shell of its former self enables one to reflect on how the winners not only get to write the history books but also burn those of their enemies.

Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) conqueror Genghis Khan (1162-1227) practically wiped from the face of the earth any trace of the vanquished kingdom.

He obliterated its buildings and written records, effectively erasing it from the history books before it was written into them.

Surviving samples of the kingdom's unique scripts are displayed at the Western Xia Tomb museum. These specimens show a form of writing that is neater than its often-quadrangular mother script.